Location: Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park in
Yamanashi, Shizuoka & Kanagawa Prefectures, Japan
Entry point: Subashiri Trail 5th Station,
Oyama Town, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan (2,000 MASL)
Exit point: Yoshida Trail, Kitaguchi Hongu
Fuji Sengen-Jinja, Japan (2,300 MASL)
Elevation: 3,776 MASL (12,388 feet)
Days required / Hours to summit: 2 Days /
7-10 hours
Specs: Major climb, Difficulty 5/9, Trail
Class 1
Features: The highest mountain of the Japan
consist of four trails: Yellow - Yoshida Trail (Yamanishi Prefecture )
with Trailhead Fuji-Subaru Line 5th Station; Red - Subashiri Trail (Shizuoka
Prefecture); Green - Gotemba (Shizuoka Prefecture); and Blue - Fujinomiya Trail
(Shizuoka Prefecture). The trail we preferred was the Subashiri Trail
where from its jump-off point towards Setokan Hut at 2,700 MASL, our lodge for
overnight, has 90% of the trail is covered with Hinoki Cypress and southern
Japanese Hemlock with two viewdecks overlooking Lake Yamanakako. The
trail along this line is well-defined making it easy for the trekkers to strut
on it. From Setokan Hut, is 5-6 hours trek with an open trail mostly
loose volcanic soil where it makes difficult to walk and is lined with ropes as
trail guide. There are still a number of lodges aside from Setokan
while heading to the summit offering water and other cold/hot drinks, hot
noodles and there is even a post office near the summit. All lodges have
clean comfort rooms. In descending, we opted to have Yoshida trail, and
it was a zigzag trail of loose volcanic soil. It leads to the 5th Station
where buses are available for transport to Tokyo for about 3 hours.
A victorious photo at Mount Fuji Summit
DAY ZERO - July 24, 2023
It all started when I boarded Cebu Pacific Flight 5J 5054 which departed Ninoy Aquino International Airport of Manila on its Terminal 3 at 6:15 A.M. of July 24, 2023. It arrived Narita International Airport of Japan at Terminal 2 at 12:00 P.M. I was with the company of 25 other Filipino climbers as organized by Dr. Ericson Ranchez where the climbing package costs US$350 excluding the round trip airfare and the meals and train fares before and after the climb. The climb proper was July 25 - 26, 2023. The late lunch on the 26th and the accommodation after the climb was on our personal account.
Our Mount Fuji Climbing Team
Upon arrival at Narita International /Airport, those who were not able to buy Yen currency had exchanged their Peso or US Dollar currency at the airport. On my part, I purchased Yen currency from Tivoli Money Exchange at Trinoma a day before my trip. They offer the best exchange rate than other black market outlets. I also rented a pocket wifi online from Travel Recommends of P2,500 good for 7 days, excluding the courier fee for its delivery. One needs pocket wifi in traveling Japan since most of the time, you have to use the Google map most particularly in locating places and transferring from one train station to another train stations. And most of all, purchased through Klook a discounted unlimited train ride card in Shinkansen for P15,541, which I used it for unlimited rides from Tokyo going to southern part of Japan which is Fukuoka or Hakata via Shin-Kobe and had day trip also in Hiroshima.
While at Narita International Airport
It took us a while to stay at Narita airport since we have to buy through vendo machine the Suica card where we will load money value for our train rides. Loading the card is also done through vendo machine. Initially, we need to load it for our Narita Express (NEX) train fare. I also had activated my Shinkansen 7-day Japan Rail Pass (Green which means it needs seat reservation like exclusive train accommodation). The yen equivalent rate of the 7-day Japan unlimited rail pass is 39,600 yen which I paid for P15,541. The NEX rate is 3,250 yen or P1,247 for a travel time of 1 hour 10 minutes train for 77 kilometers. While at the airport, we took also our lunch from a convenience store.
Boarding the train to Shinjuku Central Station
When we arrived at the Shinjuku Central Station, we secured our luggage by putting them at the coin lockers since our 20-kilo luggage will not be carried going up to Mount Fuji. Besides, we will be staying in Odawara going to Gotemba heading to Subashiri Trail Jump-off, however, we have to traverse to the 5th Station as we descend from Mount Fuji. The cost of the middle-size coin locker is 700 yen (P268) for a day rental. What we only carried were our essentials needed for the climb packed in our 30-liter backpack. From Shinjuku Central Station to Odawara station took us 1 hour and 30 minutes train ride costing 3,544 yen or P1,360 for 69 kilometers.
Exiting from the Odawara train station
Our group was divided into two, where all of us males were housed at the Plum Hostel, a comfortable bunk bed with its own curtain and electric lamp for US$20 overnight stay. This is covered by the US$350 climbing package, but not the Suica card and its money value and the NEX train rate. This hostel is located at 3-4-17 Sakaecho 2F-B, Odawara, 250-0011, Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan. Our lunch and dinner were charged to our personal account. The accommodation has free provision of unlimited water, tea and coffee as well as the wifi, though the bath towel is requested and is charged for 100 yen or P38.40.
This is how Plum Hostel looks like - our overnight accommodation before Mount Fuji climb
Of course, the bathroom and comfort room are common, though there is provision of hot shower if you opt to have it. The bathroom provisions are shampoo, body wash and hair conditioner. Guests need to wake up early for bathroom and CR use as they are not enough in proportion to the guests. We actually woke-up as early as 3:30 A.M. and had to buy packed breakfast and lunch for the climb at the nearby 7-Eleven store. Overall, everything was convenient for us.
Visiting the female's hostel 8 blocks away
We had an ample rest at our hostel accommodation, where we took hot shower after checking in. Then, we had an environmental scanning and that includes looking for the best food and some stuff to buy for our climb. I did buy a white t-shirt and two briefs and sweets. They looked and tasted so delicious. There was a variety of meal packages at the nearby convenience store but I opted to eat in one of the local restaurants where it costed me 390 yen or P150. At 7-Eleven a meal can cost 270 yen or P104. It was summer then, so it was not really cold.
My Dinner: Tanaka's Shimmered Meat and Tofu (with a separate order of 105 yen rice)
My dessert, so delicious for 105 yen or P40
DAY 1 - July 25, 2023
We were at 7-Eleven as early as 3:45 A.M. to buy our packed meals and proceed to Odawara train station at around 4:00 A.M. It was just a 6-minute walk from our accommodation. Convenience store in the train station gave us the opportunity to buy more packed meals and trail food including the bottled water.
At Odawara train station
While waiting for the train to Shin-Matsuda station
From Odawara station, we boarded a train for just one station going to Shin-Matsuda, where we took a train going to Gotemba. It took us 10 minutes for this train ride.
While on board the train going to Shin-Matsuda
Transfer train from Shin-Matsuda going to Gotemba
The train from Shin-Matsuda to Gotemba is 43 minutes for 1,700 yen or P652. While on board, we captured the panoramic view of the countryside.
My climbing buddies while on board the train for Gotemba
This is a landmark just opposite Gotemba train station.
From Gotemba station is just a walking distance where our booked bus trip to Subashiri jump-off awaited us. The bus drive going to Subashiri is more than an hour.
The bus ride heading to Subashiri Jump-off point
Mount Fuji Subashiri Trail Information Center
Our group arrived at Subashiri jump-off point at 8:32 A.M. and we took turns in taking pictures and videos on its marker. The weather was either hot or cold, but the mighty sun was shining so bright above us.
A wider view of the jump-off point
Inside the souvenir shop and food store
The elevation marker at the jump-off point
The jump-off point is at 2,000 MASL already. Thus, climbers will only scale the remaining 1,776 of Mount Fuji's total elevation of 3,776 MASL. It has a clean comfort room where you need to pay 100 yen or P38. You can also buy a wooden pole where you can have a stamp in every lodge you pass by heading to the summit. The amount of stamp depends on the elevation. The stamp starts a cost of 100 yen on the first station stop and the rate increases as you go higher to the summit.
The start of the trek
We started our trek at 9:33 A.M. since we stayed longer at the jump-off point to eat, buy souvenir items and to have final preparation for the climb. Climbing Mount Fuji feels so magical. It is a different experience of a lifetime. In most aspects, climbing mountains in the Philippines is so different in climbing Mount Fuji. This mountain is so climber-friendly. It reduces your concerns to your convenience.
At 10:01 A.M. this is the trail looks like
Along the trail, the most evident tree species are the Hinoki Cypress and the Southern Japanese hemlock. Though the trail has solid rocks, it is manageable since it is well established for the convenience of the climber. It was like having a chill climb. It was purely stress-free walking without stepping on big trees roots or to scale over massive rocks. If you want to take videos and pictures, there is no hassle because we were advised not to speed up trekking.
The first open trail 10:32 A.M.
During summer, this is how Mount Fuji's summit looks like minus the snow cap. I learned that scaling Mount Fuji during winter is not allowed. If one insists, he/she will be given special permit but with so many restricting conditions plus the fact that he/she will be at his/her own, since the lodges are also closed. It must be a self-contained climb in case the special permit is approved.
The open trail showcases Lake Yamanakako at the backdrop
The open trail is a rope segment one and it has loose volcanic soil. It offers a breathtaking backdrop of the Lake Yamanakako and the surrounding hills and lowlands.
Taking a break at the 6th Station
Reached 6th Station at an elevation of 2,400 MASL at 11:12 A.M. where it also houses the Osada-sansu lodge. It is a point of relief since it has a comfort room; food and drinks store. My climbing buddies had their first stamp for their pole for 200 yen.
The welcoming wooden benches at the 6th Station
We stayed at the 6th Station for 24 minutes to savor the majestic scenery that we feasted thru our endless wondering eyes. A few of us took snacks while others had their lunch.
The Setokan Hut Mountain Lodge at 2,700 MASL
I arrived at the Setokan Hut at 12:37 Noon, where this was the lodge that we stayed for overnight. This is the original of the two lodges of the 6th Station. The CR fee here is 300 yen, though booked guests need not to pay. Our dinner and breakfast here as well as our accommodation are part of the climbing package cost.
How does our comfortable bunk beds look like?
The lodge offers drinking water for free, though refilling is not allowed. There is no shower to refresh. As the sun sets at its rest, the temperature dropped to 15 degrees centigrade. The hosted dinner meal was pork meat with tofu and it was more than enough for my craving stomach.
Taken while at Setokan Mountain Lodge at around 7:00 P.M.
Socialization was only up to 9:00 P.M. since we need to start our trek as early as 2:00 A.M. the following day. Noticeably, the sun sets here after 7:00 P.M. I had a tight and dreamless sleep at 9 degrees centigrade temperature, wrapped up in a very clean comforter and huge pillow. I think, Mount Pulag of the Philippines has a freezing temperature with extreme coldness getting deep to my bones which will result for one not to be able to sleep. As for Mount Fuji, it offered me a very comfortable sleep.
Day 2 - July 26, 2023
While resting at the First 7th Station
We started our trek at 2:00 A.M. of July 25, 2023 and it was all dark on the trail. Only the beaming lights of our flashlights can be seen. With non-stop assault, we reached the first of the two huts of the 7th Station at 3:05 A.M. with an elevation of 3,090 MASL.
Taken at the First Hut of the 7th Station (Model: Kevin Desiderio)
I really regret, I have been rushing to ascend, since I did not have the chance to have the above photo. Kevin and Kim reached this point at 3:35 A.M. and their camera lens feasted on this magnificent scenery.
A big Wow! for Miss Kim M.D. for this perfect capture
The picture above was taken by Kevin Desiderio for Miss Kim in the same location of the first hut of the 7th Station clocking at 3:37 A.M.
This is a part of Miharashikan Hut - the second hut of the 7th Station
It was an endless assault again, but with consistent and determined strides, we reached the second hut of the 7th Station named Miharashikan at 3,200 MASL which clocked at 3:55 A.M. This only mean, that I had 50 minutes in moving from an elevation from 3,090 to 3,200 MASL.
While at Tomoekan Hut Original 8th Station at 3,400 MASL
It took me one hour to reach Tomoekan Hut Original 8th Station clocking at 4:55 A.M. Looking at the picture, it seemed that it was no longer dark around.
Overlooking the trail down the Tomoekan Station
Obviously, the trail is already open and climbers have to walk on a loose volcanic soil. It is so difficult walking on this kind of trail as you usually slip down and you have to exert effort to carry yourself up in order to advance.
Warming my body thru a hot chocolate
We stayed longer at Tomoe-kan since there was a light shower. We regrouped here since some were still strutting over the loose volcanic soil down the trail.
Subashiri-Yoshida trails intersection
This is the point where those coming from Yoshida trail from the summit meet at the Subashiri intersection. We also had the same route coming from the summit.
By the way, all four Mount Fuji trails have their own 5th station and this is the only station where cars can drive up to that point. Yoshida trail is the most famous trail as it has a lot of huts accommodation, but with monotonous open zigzag trails. However, Subashiri trail has the most longest tree line trail where climbers are protected from the sun. In short, Subashiri has the most picturesque trail.
Taking a rest at Goraiko-kan Hut 8.5th Station at 3.450 MASL
I reached Goraiko-hut station at 6:30 A.M. Light showers continued. I have noticed that while we were approaching the summit, more climbers were being visible. I understand, there are a lot of huts or accommodation that climbers can book for an overnight stay. Kids and senior citizens were very much visible from this point up to the summit.
The summit looks near but difficult to trek up
At 7:12 AM, I was already battling on this kind of unfriendly trail. This is the point where I felt so much exhaustion since the loose volcanic soil is getting fine and it is difficult to advance up. And the soil particles were getting stuck inside my trekking shoes.
The Shinto Torii Gate at an elevation of 3,720
After a laborious and difficult hurdle along unfriendly trail of loose volcanic soil, I reached on this stone-trail entering the Shinto torii gate almost near the summit.
I thought this was the summit, but I was misled
Reaching this point led me to a feeling of excitement for I really thought this was already the summit. There are a number of shops where you can buy food and drinks. Bigger and clean comfort rooms with bidet. There were several long wooden benches to rest on. And most of all, it was like fiesta. You can see a lot of people and you will not think that you are in an elevation of more than 3,700 meters. I kept on scrutinizing at the marker which will give me an idea of its elevation but to no avail, since all words and characters were written in Japanese alphabet. I bought ramen to warm my stomach but I left it unfinished when my companions told me to trek to the summit. Remember, I have no friend to ask for a picture.
Not the summit yet, just a marker ha ha ha
After a ramen break at a dining shop, we searched for the summit and the trails were so foggy. Nobody assisted us. It was 8AM when we started the trek at this point, it was already 8:11 A.M. We thought again, this was the summit marker but it was not. There was nobody where we can ask for assistance. Everybody was busy ha ha ha! I have seen another group of Filipinos (my judgement was based on the language they had loudly spoken), were busy on their videos for reels, ha ha ha.
The locals guided us to this way to the summit at 8:41 A.M.
It was really foggy and you will not see that there are some other peaks around. There was one point when we thought it was the summit, but we have seen some climbers appearing from the back of that peak. A certain local where we asked guided us to find the trail towards the summit.
Finally, at 8:59AM, I had this summit solo picture at 3,776 MASL
The summit of Mount Fuji has an automated weather station called Japan Meteorological Weather Station. While at the summit, I have seen a lot of kids and senior citizens. I thought I was in a mall, there were a lot of people in queue waiting for their turn for a picture at the summit marker.
This is how Mount Fuji summit exactly looks like
From the summit, one can see the totality of the crater of Mount Fuji. Had I have been with a close friend, I could have the option to direct him for a most powerful picture at the summit. But mine was just a quick shot, from a climbing companion whom I just met the day before the climb, he belongs to our Filipino team of climbers.
The massive Mount Fuji crater
We started descending from the summit at 9:25AM at the Yoshida trail. I did not remember that our group had regrouping. Other subgroups of our group had left ahead of us just after they had accomplished their summit photo. Anyway, there is no need for a guide since there are a lot of climbers descending and you only need to follow the flow of climbers going down. Besides, there are no other trails visible. No trees that will cover the trail sight down to the jump-off point.
One of the trails along Toshida route near the 7th Station
It was already 9:51AM when I reached this point of Toshida trail. Our group of five kept on resting outside the welcoming benches of the accommodation huts. We kept on urinating on any available comfort room along our way.
The multiple zigzag route of Toshida trail at 12:47 Noon
Trekking down Toshida trail was an endless long zigzag route. On our way were a number of accommodation huts. Indeed, Toshida trail has a lot of accommodation huts compared with other trails. It has an open trail with only loose volcanic soil to strut on. It was a continuous descending trek from the summit which started at 9:25AM.
The trail leading to the entry point of Yoshida Trail
After a series of zigzag trail, we reached a flat trail free from loose volcanic soil at 1:24 PM. This is where we had the opportunity to walk comfortably but dead tired then. We thought then that the 5th Station was just near but we were wrong.
The entry point to Yoshida trail
At 1:27 PM, we exited from Yoshida entry point with the company of my four climbing buddies. However, we learned that this was not yet the 5th Station that our booked bus for Shinjuku is waiting for us.
Reaching the 5th Station at 1:48 PM
Finally, we reached the last point where we can comfortably sit and have lunch at the 5th Station. We had a sumptuous late lunch. Mine costed 405 yen. Never mine, the restaurant we had our lunch was a chic or aristocratic. A few of our group members were still on the trail, while our group of five joined our organizer, Dr. Erickson Ranchez for lunch.
The Shinjuku Station
We boarded a booked bus at the 5th Station at 3:00 P.M. and arrived at the Shinjuku bus station at 4:12 PM where we picked up our luggage stored at the coin lockers. Then, we all separated having our own itineraries in travelling around Japan. It was only July 26, 2023 then, but I stayed in Japan till July 30 of the month.
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