BAY-YO RICE TERRACES: ONE OF THE BEST OF BONTOC, MOUNTAIN PROVINCE

Location:  Barangay Bay-yo, Bontoc, Mountain Province, Philippines 

My magical backdrop of Bay-yo Rice Terraces

There is no single exact count of individual rice terraces in the Philippines, because they form massive, interconnected networks across the mountains.  However, official UNESCO World Heritage Centre recognize five primary clusters, while broader geographic inventories document more than 48 major terrace systems and clusters across the Ifugao province, namely: Batad (Banaue), Bangaan (Banaue), Mayoyao (Mayoyao), Hungduan (Hungduan) and Nagacadan (Kiangan). They were built approximately 2,000 years ago by the ancestors of the indigenous Ifugao people.   It is a misconception, that the famous Banaue Rice Terraces are a National Cultural Treasure, but they are not officially on the UNESCO World Heritage list due to modern structural changes in the town.

With the native, Roberto "Lotno" Banaba

So, it is clear that our subject, Bay-yo Rice Terraces is not a part of the rice terraces clusters of the Ifugao province, since it is located in the Mountain Province.  While the major terrace clusters of the Mountain Province is divided into three:  Maligcong Rice Terraces, Bontoc and Sagada, and Sabangan.  Bay-yo Rice Terraces is a part of the Bontoc major terrace cluster.

Bontoc town proper

Bay-yo Rice Terraces is 16 kilometers from Bontoc town proper which is approximately less than 15 minutes by single motor bike or 30 minutes if through public utility jeepney.    On this trip I came from Iyaman Farm Resort, where I stayed as my accommodation while I had my 7 Peaks Bauko Climb.

Bontoc town proper as captured from Sitio Kalonglong of Barangay Samoki

Bontoc is a 2nd-class municipality and the capital town of Mountain Province in the Cordillera Administrative Region (CAR) of the Philippines.  It has 16 barangays including Bontoc Ili, Maligcong, and Samoki.  It houses Bontoc Museum which showcases the traditional indigenous culture and its early historic artifacts and literature.   It is tucked inside deep mountain valleys along the Chico River in Northern Luzon.  

The average elevation of Bontoc is approximately 1,143 meters (3,850 feet) to 1,173 meters (3,848 feet) above sea level, making its weather colder all year long compared to the lowlands.  Its temperature typically ranges from a low of 15 degrees Celsius during the coolest nights in January to a high of 28 degrees Celsius during warm daytime periods in May.  Year-round daily temperatures generally average between 22 degrees Celsius to 27 degrees Celsius.

Famous attractions in Bontoc are hanging coffins nearby, Maligcong Rice Terraces and mountain hiking spots like Mount Fato and Mount Kofafey.

Agguyo/Agkhuyo River cutting through Sugit Rice Terraces

This is one of the sceneries along our way from Bontoc town proper located between Barangays Talubin and Barangay Samoki.  Agyu River connects at the far end of Agguyo River.

Along Ab-ab in  Barangay Talubin 

Another major clusters of Bontoc and Sagada terraces on our way to Bay-yo Village.   Currently, there is the BinBay Cafe on the left end of the Ab-ab Bridge.

Drying newly harvested rice along the highway

Vhe-vhe Water Falls along the road

Obviously a mountainous region

Arriving at the viewpoint of Bay-yo with the local Roberto "Lotno" Banaba

After a drive of 13 kilometers from Bontoc town proper, we arrived at the viewpoint.  This point is just along the highway.  Those buses coming from Banaue passes thru this viewpoint, but commercial buses and jeepneys coming from Manila or Banaue or those coming from Sagada and Bontoc do not stop at this point.

By the way, Lotno Banaba is the uncle of my guide, Alberto Ivo Andrada.  I am lucky that we were welcomed in Bay-yo warmly since Albert is known to the villagers.

Arriving in Bay-yo village

From the viewpoint is  3 kilometers trekking down, where it is passable by any vehicle.     This lush golden terraces during harvest season is on the slopes of Mount Polis which offer a scenic roadside view for travelers journeying through the Cordillera region.

Heading to the terraces

Lucky enough, during our visit, it was harvest season and Albert asked the villagers if I can join the harvest which they enthusiastically welcomed.

San Pablo Catholic Chapel blends in the scenic highland terraces

This Catholic chapel serves as a local Basic Ecclesial Community (BEC) place of worship for the residents nestled right by the majestic view of the terraces.  It is under the Ecclesiastical Jurisdiction of the Apostolic Vicariate of Bontoc-Lagawe.

Joining the harvesters team

Do you know that harvesting rice here is just Bayanihan?  They are not being paid.  Bayanihan is a core Filipino cultural value that means community unity, cooperation, and helping others without expecting anything in return.  It comes from the word bayan, meaning town, nation, or community.

Harvesting in action

My way of community immersion

It was actually 12:30 Noon when we were in the rice field harvesting rice, but it was not hot at all since it was cold.  It was even windy and it was just cool to be in the middle of the rice field joining the villagers harvesting rice.

Enjoying what I was doing

You know what, the villagers are English-speaking, and mind you, they are fluent in English.  I just love being with the villagers.  I had a chat with one of them and she was a student.  A college senior student and like me, she is also a mountain climber.

Happily showing my harvest

Washing my mud-covered feet

While I was washing my feet, my harvested rice was carried to the warehouse.  The man standing in front of me carried my harvest.  That is how much I've worked for the day.

Leaving the place with a happy heart

After harvest, there was supposed to be lavish party for the bayanihan harvesters including me, but I need to leave and can no longer wait since I have a scheduled trip back to Manila and Albert drove me back to Bontoc town where the bus terminal is located for Manila.  The bus I boarded came originally from its first departure station of Sagada.  I left Bontoc town at 3:45 P.M.  The bus fare from Bontoc to Manila is P1,300 or US$21.42 for 12.5 hours.  

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THE BEST OF SEA OF CLOUDS AT MOUNT AMUYAO SUMMIT

Location: Municipality of Barlig, Mountain Province, Philippines

Major Jump-off Point: Sitio Macalana, Barlig, Mountain Province, Philippines

Exit Point: Sitio Macalana, Barlig, Mountain Province, Philippines

Elevation: 2,702 MASL (8,865 feet)

Total Elevation Gain: 1,300 Meters

Days Required/Hours to Summit: 2 days/5-6 hours (Ideal)

Specs: Major Climb, Difficulty 6/9, Trail Class 3

Features:  Its trail commence with rice fields and terraces; with pine forest, mossy forest, with knife edge, cardiac assaults at Monkelat trails; it has highland grass and orchids; both sunset and sunrise can be viewed from the summit; the summit has bunkhouses with limited bed with no mattresses; the summit also house ABS-CBN radio tower and relay stations; and it has three mountain zones, to include: tropical moist forest (1,600 - 1,800 MASL), tropical premontane wet forest (1,801 - 2,400 MASL and tropical montane forest (2,400 - 2,702 MASL).

The sea of clouds at the summit of Mount Amuyao

Mount Amuyao has been the 10th highest mountain in the Philippines at 2,702 MASL elevation.  However, with the recent discoveries, it slid to 12th ranking.  Mount Kalawitan at 2,714 MASL, also in the Mountain Province and Mount Ragang of Piapayungan Range in Lanao del Sur also holds the same elevation of Mount Kalawitan now hold the 10th ranking of highest mountains in the Philippines.

Day 0 - Departure

Waiting at the May Flower Car Park

The usual climbing package leaves Manila in the evening of Friday.  My pick-up point was the May Flower Car Park in Greenfield District, Ortigas of Mandaluyong City as requested from our tour service provider.  Our service van left the place at 9:30 A.M. heading to Barlig of Mountain Province.  It was an overnight trip, though I was not able to sleep while on board.

Day  1 - First Day Climb

Arrival at the Municipal Hall of Barlig

We arrived at the Municipal Hall of Barlig, Mountain Province at 8:50 A.M. for climbing registration which means, our road travel was 11 hours and 20 minutes.  It was a typical rural area.    When going to Barlig, you will pass thru Banaue and then the key road junction leading toward Barlig (via the Junction Talubin - Barlig - Calaccad Road) in Bontoc is Barangay Talubin specifically in Sitio Pingew/Pingiw, which serves as the critical intersection point to travel toward eastern Mountain Province  like Barlig and Natonin, as well as routes connecting Back toward Bontoc proper and Banaue.''  If one drives straight without heading to Barlig, it will reach Sagada for a distance of 37.6 kilometers for a travel duration of 1 hour and 20 minutes.

The view along our way heading to the jump-off point

After the registration, we had a short drive heading to the Sitio Macalana of 3.3 kilometers or 6 minutes where along the road are magnificent sceneries of rice terraces.  We were already feeling the cold temperature which is a characteristic of high altitude place, considering that Barlig has an average elevation of 1,500 to 1,848 (4,921 to 6,063 feet) above sea level.

Barlig town proper

Barlig is a remote fourth-class municipality in the Mountain Province within the Cordillera Administrative Region (CAR).  It has a population of 4,363 and comprises three main cultural geographical areas:  Barlig Central, Lias, and Kadaclan.  It is divided into 11 barangays, including Gawana (Poblacion), Lias, and Kadaclan.  It is bounded by Bontoc, Sadanga, Natonin, Tinglayan, and Mayoyao.  It celebrates unique locals festivals like the Fortan festival in Barlig proper, Changyasan in Lias, and Menaliyam in Kadaclan.

A typical local sari-sari store and restaurant

Mountaineers always stop at this point for breakfast and to buy additional necessities before heading to the summit.  Meal order varies from P100 to P150, but they have bigger servings.  And you cannot request for half serving in order to reduce the price. More expensive compared to the carenderia in Metro Manila where a certain  viand only cost P50 to P60, but smaller in servings.   A cup of hot water for coffee or milk costs P5 to P10.

Passing thru Saint Michael the Archangel Parish at Central Barlig

Our group started the trek at exactly 10:00 A.M.  By the way, there is a very strong historical presence of the Episcopal or Anglican Church in Barlig, as the province and Barlig fall under the Episcopal Diocese of Northern Philippines.  There is also a local segment of the town who are Roman Catholics.  Other Christian Denominations in Barlig includes groups the Seventh-Day Adventist Church, Iglesia Filipina Independiente, and Iglesia ni Cristo.  On the other hand, many residents, particularly in outlying areas like Lias, maintain indigenous spiritual practices tied to traditional social structures and council houses known as the ator.

The trek leading to another registration stop

I think, what we signed at the municipal hall was for our climbing permit and at this point was the registration at the jump-off point.

The view along the trail at 10:42 A.M.

What so fascinating of the climb was most of the trails unfold the view of the rice terraces.   The terraces here are generally called Barlig Rice Terraces.  Other rice terraces here is called Lias Rice Terraces located in the Lias cluster of villages.  Local rice terraces in the area are also broadly referred to in the indigenous Liallig/Finallig language as payyiw.

Overlooking Barlig town at a higher elevation at 11:25 A.M.

Passing thru a mossy forest

The trail along the mossy forest at 12:35 Noon

This mossy forest is a high-altitude cloud forest wrapped in perpetual fog, cool temperatures, and dense, goblin-like vegetation where trees are heavily draped in thick moss, wild orchids, and ferns.

An improvised wooden trail stairs

A resting shade along the trail at 12:59 Noon

Advancing farther at 12:07 Noon

Ascending thru concrete stairs at 1:10 P.M.

Passing thru this point at 3:07 P.M.

Open trail with the view of sea of clouds at 4:28 P.M.

Arriving the summit bunker at 4:55 P.M.

The view from the summit at 5:14 P.M.

The best thing for Mount Amuyao is its "sea of clouds" can be viewed anytime.  Since our climb is package tour, it included food and we do not have cooked for our meals.  So, for the whole time, I was just viewing the sea of clouds endlessly.  I did nothing but to look around completely speechless of the beauty of the sea of clouds.  While in Mount Pulag, you need to catch up its sea of clouds early in the morning.  But honestly, Mount Pulag's sea of clouds is incomparable.  It is like an ocean of clouds, so vast and massive.

The sunset at 5:15 P.M.

My sunset silhouette at 5:24 P.M.

The sunset's hue at 5:38 P.M.

Finally, the sun sets completely at 6:06 P.M.

Dinner was served at 6:45 P.M., but everybody was not willing to have socials as it was completely a freezing night.  Unfortunately, I did not bring with me a tent and sleeping bag because we were assured that we will sleep inside the bunker.  But, extreme cold was like piercing my skin while I was lying at a thick mattress and my thick blanket was not enough to warm my shivering body. It was really a bloody night of sleep.  May I borrow the word "bloody" from the Britons, as intensifier to mean "very" and "extremely".

Day 2 - The Highlight of the Climb

The magical sunrise at 6:03 A.M.

I did not have a good sleep but I managed to wake up at 4:30 A.M. waiting for the sunrise.  Breakfast was served as early as 5:05 A.M.

Our group picture taken before our descent at 8:40 P.M.

On our way to descent

Reaching the jump-off point at 11:52 A.M.

It only took me 3 hours and 12 minutes to descend back to the jump-off point in Sitio Macalina.  The trail was slippery.  I find it difficult to ascend than to descend the mountain.  But as a whole, the climb was really rewarding.  It was really worth it.

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