JUST A QUICK ESCAPE TO SAGADA (PHILIPPINES)

Location:  Sagada, Mountain Province, Philippines 

The grandeur of Bomod-ok Water Falls

This was an unplanned tour with Rome Frias as we wanted to enjoy it cold weather of Sagada which is a part of Mountain Province.  This province is comparably colder than Baguio City, tagged as the country's summer capital.  Sagada, generally has a temperature which ranges from 15 to 28 degrees Celsius year round, while Baguio City has an average temperature of about 20.6 to 21 degrees Celsius.  Cooler months (December to February) in Sagada has average lows drop from 13 to 14 degrees Celsius and highs reach from 20 to 21 degrees Celsius.

Day 1 

Second bus stop-over after passing Banaue

Our trip started from HM Transport Terminal at Monte de Piedad Street corner EDSA, Cubao Quezon City (Near Victory Liner).  It has to be noted that there is only nightly schedules typically running between 8:00 to 10:30 P.M.  We booked our ticket 4 days earlier.  Unfortunately, earlier schedules were fully booked already and we landed getting the 10:30 P.M. trip.

At this point, we already passed Banaue Rice Terraces and the junction road heading to Batad Rice Terraces.   Both tourist attractions are from the province of Ifugao.

My travel buddy Rome Frias while at our second bus stop over at 7:19 A.M.

We bought a ticket boarding a Super Deluxe Bus (with an onboard comfort room) for P1,200 or US$19.52 for a one-way terminal booking.  Online ticketing platform like 12Go Asia  has a rate of P1,226.42 or US$19.95 due to processing fees.   The travel duration was more than 12 hours.  Our first stopover was in Aritao from the province of Nueva Vizcaya for a late dinner.  This direct bus from Cubao (Metro Manila) to Sagada via Nueva Vizcaya passes through 5 provinces in total: Bulacan, Nueva Ecija, Nueva Vizcaya, Ifugao, and Mountain Province for a total of 462 kilometers.

Approaching Bontoc town of the Mountain Province at 8:44 A.M.

At this point in time, we already passed Bay-yo Rice Terraces which can be viewed along the highway.   Bontoc town proper is 18 kilometers for 40 minutes bus travel from Sagada.

Arriving in Sagada at 9:48 A.M.

Including the 2 bus stops, it took us 11 hours and 18 minutes for our travel to Sagada.  Upon our arrival, we paid a mandatory tourist registration fee of P100 or US$1.63 at teh Sagada Municipal Tourist Information Center.   Tourists should bear in mind that they have to keep their registration receipt at all times since officials and tour coordinators might ask to see it when they visit local spots like caves, waterfalls, or viewpoints.  Another thing is ATMs are very limited in Sagada, so they should have enough physical cash for the registration, local guides, and food.   When paying the registration fee, you will be asked if you need a guide and your accommodation.  On our part, we have already arranged bookings for our accommodation, transportation within Sagada with guide and itinerary.

Our first destination after resting in our accommodation at 1:06 P.M.

After having our lunch, we headed to the Pattong Sacred Area, a culturally significant indigenous site, where according to oral tradition and ancestral belief, it is regarded as a sacred ground that unseen village or ancestral spirits quietly dwell to watch over and protect the local ili (village).   The elders pass down stories that the unseen inhabitants of Pattong guard the community with timeless patience.

Passing thru Pidlisan Rice Terraces to Bomod-ok Water Falls

Since Bomod-ok water falls is 5 kilometers from Sagada Poblacion (town proper), tourists has to board a transport going to its primary jump-off point in Barangay Bangaan, where it is the start of the trail to Bomod-ok Falls.  It has an alternative or extended paths passing through neighboring village areas like Barangay Aguid.  Tourists has to pay a barangay entrance/registration fee of P10 or US$0.16 per person.   There is also a guide fee of P700 or US$11.39 for a group of 1 to 7 people.   If tourists would really need transport from Poblacion to Barangay Bangaan, they need to pay P500 or US$8.13 or P650 or US$10.58 for a two-way jeepney or van rental to and from the jump-off point.   But trekking is still required from the jump-off point to the water falls for 45 hours to 1 hour going down.  Going back to the jump-off point may take longer, since it has strenuous uphill climb cutting through the scenic Pidlisan Rice Terraces.

Trekking along Pidlisan Rice Terraces dated April 5, 2012

To capture the best view of Pidlisan Rice Terraces, often called Fidelisan Rice Terraces, along the Bomod-ok Falls trail, visit the place between March and May for lush green fields, or early morning (around 6:00 A.M. to 8:00 A.M.) for clear mountain light and minimal mist/haze.

The hanging bridge

There is no need to pass thru this hanging bridge heading to the water falls, but this can be seen just few meters along the way heading to the falls.

Still at the hanging bridge with Rome Frias

This hanging bridge connects two cliffs of about 50-meter deep and from this vantage point will give the tourists an opportunity to capture the totality of the Big Falls or Bomod-ok Falls.

Still 3 minutes trek away from the water falls

Reaching this point completed my trek along stone steps, rice paddies (rice terraces), and indigenous villages like Pide and Fidelisan.   We cut through the villages of the locals and witness the simplicity and indigenous way of living.

The Amlusong River watershed area of Bomod-ok water falls

Bomod-ok water falls or as local call it as Big Falls or Mother Halls has a towering height of 200 feet which drops into a rocky plunge pool fed by local mountain streams in the valley near Fidelisan an Pide the locals called Amlusong River.  Its pool is generally about chest-deep in most swimmable sections, though depth varies by area and season due to shifting rocks, strong cascading currents, and varying rainfall.

A 2:12 P.M. photo at the water falls

Swimming at the pool base of the water falls is very cold.  The mountain water stays ice-cold all year long, often feeling close to 10 degrees Celsius.  Though even the water is very cold, a quick dip feels fresh and cooling after the long 1 to 2-hour hike down the stone steps and rice terraces since after the long trek, our body will be warm enough to withstand the freezing cold water.

Our picture taken by our guide

Since it was already late in the afternoon, the freezing cold water of the falls was no longer bearable and walking along the trail has strong cold winds.  Thus, we did not take a bath there.  Besides, without other visitors, the place feels so eerie.  I can feel it was very enchanting that time compared to my other visits in sunny mornings that there were a lot of people and the place seems so vibrant and festive.

The massive wet and slippery boulders of the falls area

The area of the water falls is consist of large river rocks, massive wet boulders, and towering gorge cliffs shaped by the region's dynamic water currents.  While Sagada if famous for its extensive marine limestone, the immediate base and stream area of the waterfall consist of rugged, water-smoothed river stone and slippery rock walls covered in damp moss.

Myself being dwarfed by the massive boulders

There are small local stores and food stalls along the hiking trail and in the nearby village areas leading to Bomod-ok Water falls.   They sell bottled water, sports drinks, soft drinks, and light snacks like biscuits or local treats like banana-cue, homemade lemonade, quick bites like kwek-kwek, fishballs and tempura; vegetable lumpia, binangkal, and cheese-filled buchi.  However, they are not in regular basis.  Thus, be share to pack with you drinks and snack items.  Bring with you cash for buying these items and it should be in small cash denominations.

So intimately close to the water falls

We arrived at our accommodation at 4:54 P.M. and had a sumptuous dinner from a nearby restaurant.  We never had a chance to roam around further as the cool weather pushed us to sleep early in our warm beds.  As early as 7:00 P.M., we were both snoring already.

Day 2

Just outside our accommodation at 6:54 A.M.

We had our breakfast at around 7:00 A.M. at a nearby restaurant.   The cost of breakfast meal in Sagada typically ranges from P160 or US$2.60 to P350 or US$5.69, depending on where to choose to eat.  But the good thing is, restaurants serve notably generous, heavy portions.

For budget options, the following can be your choices:

1. Carinderias and local diners: they are smaller roadside eateries where locals eat standard silog meals (fried rice, egg, and meat) costs between P90 or US$1.46 to P100 or US$1.63.
2. Homestay diner:  simple breakfasts like longganisa with rice costs araound P180 or US$2.93.
3. Marlboro Hills Sunrise:  If you do an early morning trek to see the sea of clouds, a warm bowl of traditional champorado at the peak costs about P80 or US$1.30.
4. Popular cafes and tourist spots: Meal orders ranges from P200 or US$3.25 to P350 or US$5.69. 

Just opposite the Municipal Hall

This point here is always busy with lots of visitors arriving coming in groups with their respective accredited guide.  Entrepreneurial locals also are many selling their local souvenir items and local treats.  We bought strawberries and they were more delicious and fresh compared to what we buy in Baguio City and even the fresh picks in La Trinidad  strawberry plantation.

Inside the Episcopalian Mission Compound

The Episcopalian Mission Compound houses the Church of St. Mary the Virgin located along Mission Road (off Staunton Road) right at the heart of the Poblacion (town center) in Sagada.  This is close to the local cooperative market, municipal center, and serves as a common pathway/access point toward the famous Echo Valley and Hanging Coffins.

While at Sagada Centennial Wheel marker

This marker within the St. Mary's Episcopal Church compound in Sagada, erected on October 11, 2001, to mark 100 years of the Episcopal Church's mission and ministry in the Philippines.

Standing at the main door of St. Mary's Episcopal Church

The interior of St. Mary's Episcopal Church

Back to Sagada Centennial Wheel Marker

It was already 9:29 A.M. and we are booked for our Baguio trip at 10:00 A.M. , thus, we limited our stroll just nearby sites at a walking distance.  To know more about other tourist spots of Sagada, just read this blog of mine of my earlier tour of Banaue-Bontoc-Sagada-Baguio Tour.

From this place, if visitors have their own vehicle and guide, it is easier to move to the following tourist spots within a range of 20 - 30 kilometers distance, namely:  Iyaman Resort Farm, Bay-yo Rice Terraces, Mapanawil Rice Terraces, Balew Rice Terraces and Pandey Rice Terraces.

THANK YOU FOR READING!

THE LIVING CULTURAL LANDSCAPE OF PANDEY RICE TERRACES OF BAUKO

Location: Barangay Bila, Bauko, Mountain Province, Philippines

Overlooking Pandey Rice Terraces upon descending Mount Bato

When one searches in Google of rice terraces, it identifies two grouped major terrace clusters of the provinces of Ifugao and Mountain Province.  Meanwhile, it divides the Mountain Province terraces into three major clusters, namely:  Maligcong, Bontoc & Sagada and Sabangan.  However, Bauko is not a part of the three aforementioned major terracess clusters in Mountain Province where it is located.  Bauko is a distinct municipality from Bontoc.  It only mean that Google has not updated yet its major terrace clusters in the Mountain Province.

Descending Mount Bato with my guide (Tom Sudaypan) completing the Bauko 7 Peaks Climb

Visiting Pandey Rice Terraces was just a side trip after my Bauko 7 Peaks Climb with my guide, Tom Sudaypan, a native of Bauko.   This 7-peak climb was indeed very rewarding as the trail is dominantly grown with pine trees.   Our exit to Pandey Rice Terraces was from Mount Bato, which completed my Bauko 7 Peaks Climb.   Mount Bato is a minor climb with an elevation of 1,872 MASL or 6,141.73 feet.

Clearing heading to Pandey Rice Terraces

Pandey Rice Terraces can be reached via local trekking paths and rustic stone steps from Barangay Bila often referred to by visitors as a steep "stairway to heaven" climb past local streams and traditional viewpoints.  This is just 650 meters away from my rustic accommodation in Iyaman Farm Resort. 

The rice thresher against its backdrop of the slopes of Mount Bato

It was Tom, my guide, who has idea for us to head towards Pandey Rice Terraces instead of trekking directly to my accommodation in Iyaman Farm Resort.  It just happened that by the time we were here, it was harvest time for rice.

Harvesting rice using sickle or kumpay in local language

I got excited to join the rice harvesting when I saw the locals harvesting rice.  A local lend me a sickle to use for harvesting rice stalks.   Locally, this sickle is called "kumpay" which is used for cutting whole rice stalks, or a small finger-mounted blade ---- often called a  ani-ani knife, rakem, or lakem --- used to snip individual rice panicles by hand.   A kumpay is a handheld, curved nd metal blade attached to a short wooden handle.   It is used to swing or slice through multiple rice stalks close to the base.

The lower part of Pandey Rice Terraces

From the point where I harvested rice, we moved to the lower part of the terraces.  We happened to see a mountain resort near a rushing stream, but it was already abandoned.   By the time we were here, there was no single tourist or visitor on sight.

The other parts of the terraces

This terraces cover an area of approximately 61 hectares (with the broader combined communal irrigation network span reaching up to 146 hectares).   They sit at an elevation of about 1,363 meters above sea level.

Zooming in the other parts of the terraces

This location is connected towards a non-concrete road enough for vehicles to pass since harvests are being transported to the town.   The average temperature in this location ranges from 19 degrees Celsius to 23 degrees Celsius year-round, reflecting the cool, high-elevation climate of the Cordillera mountain region.  The weather patterns here is prone to mist, cloudy skies, and frequent mountain showers or rain.

For both Bauko 7 Peaks Climb and Bauko tours, you can count on the expertise of  Angela Andrada and she can be contacted at 0928392662.

THANKS FOR READING!

BALEW RICE TERRACES: BAUKO'S THIRD RICE TERRACES CLUSTER

 Location:  Barangay Bagnen Oriente, Bauko, Mountain Province, Philippines

Balew Rice Terraces as capture on a 7:15 A.M.  of the day

Balew Rice Terraces (often locally misspelled or phonetically termed as baliw) are exquisitely carved, stone-walled rice paddies located in Bagnen Oriente, municipality of Bauko in Mountain Province of the Philippines.   It nestles the slopes of Mount Polis and facing the lower Bauko valley, where it rely on the pristine Kabanbanaan Watershed for irrigation.

A zoomed in capture of Balew Rice Terraces

It rests in an elevation of about 1,620 meters (5,316 feet) above sea level.  It is built with precise stone-and-earth tiered walls to fit steep mountain slopes.  It sustained by traditional communal watershed and forest management.   It is considered an authentic, living cultural landscape of the Cordilleras rather than a commercialized site.

A zoomed out capture of Balew Rice Terraces

I happened to capture this rice terraces when I was heading to Bagnen Proper for my Bauko 7 Peaks Climb.  While Mapanawil Rice Terraces is along accessible road, this one has been captured from my farthest position.  I would still find another opportunity to set foot here in the future with my family.

These three rice terraces of Bauko can be visited just in one day.  A treasure that Bauko can be proud of and a legacy that their ancestors left for Bauko's generations.

For both 7 Peaks of Bauko Climb and Bauko tour, you can count on the expertise of Angela Andrada and she can be contacted at 09283927662.

THANKS FOR READING!

MAPANAWIL RICE TERRACES: ANOTHER BAUKO TERRACES CLUSTER OF THE MOUNTAIN PROVINCE

 Location:  Barangay Bagnen Proper, Bauko, Mountain Province, Philippines

The massive Mapanawil Rice Terraces (Photo credit: Angela Andrada)

In this post, it showcases this rice terraces in different time of the day and month/season.   Some of the pictures belong to me and others to my good friend, may suki and reliable tour guide in Bauko, Angela Andrada, and yes she is also a good photographer.   She will always suggest the best angle to her clients.

Capture in a planting season in the month of February captured at 1:45 P.M.

(Photo credit: Angela Andrada)

February is not a part of rainy season in Bauko, since it falls squarely within the dry season and the cooler northeast monsoon period.  The farmers in Bauko use irrigation to supply water for planting rice.  At the same time, this month is one of the best months for outdoor activities, mountain climbing and tour guiding activities.

Taken in July 2 of the year at 7:22 A.M.

The photo above shows that rice in the terraces is almost for harvest.   In Bauko, growing traditional and premium heirloom rice varieties typically takes about 5 to 6 months (roughly 150 to 180 days) from planting to harvest, depending on the specific landrace and the highland climate.  Farmers in Bauko cultivate distinct traditional and heirloom rice landraces such as Balatinaw, Pinpinta, alongside local upland/indigenous Red Rice and Brown Rice selections.  Heirloom rice landraces are traditional, open-pollinated rice varieties passed down through generations by indigenous farming communities.  Unlike modern commercial strains, these unique grains are naturally adapted to local climates and mountain soils, often featuring distinct colors, rich nutty flavlors, and deep cultural roots.

The misty morning backdrop of Mapanawil Rice Terraces

I happened to pass this point coming from my accommodation from Iyaman Farm Resort to Bagnen Proper, where the jump-off point of my 7 Peaks of Bauko Climb awaits.  It was just a few minutes boarding in a service vehicle.  It means that Mapanawil Rice Terraces is quite accessible as it is along local trekking and rugged connecting road passable by a vehicle.

Captured at 8:40 A.M. (Photo credit: Angela Andrada)

By the way, Barangay Bagnen Proper is one of the two barangays --- along with Bagnen Oriente --- that were formed when the former single large village of Bagnen was divided. Barangay Bagnen Oriente is the primary jump-off point of Mount Polis.

Another capture of the terraces at 7:00 A.M. of July 2

What is the significance of rice terraces then?  They are significantly useful in agriculture as they turn steep unusable mountain slopes into flat, step-like farm fields.  This smart design holds standing water for crops like rice, stops heavy rain from washing away the soil, and slows down water flow to prevent destructive floods and landslides.

Taken at 7:35 A.M. of March 10 (Photo credit: Angela Andrada)

Mapanawil Rice terraces belong to the indigenous Kankana-ey heritage of Bauko and serve as a vital local cultural and agricultural landmark for that specific Mountain Province community rather than for Bakun.

For both 7 Peaks of Bauko Climb and Bauko tour, you can count on the expertise of  Angela Andrada and she can be contacted at 09283927662.

THANK YOU FOR READING!

BAY-YO RICE TERRACES: ONE OF THE BEST OF BONTOC, MOUNTAIN PROVINCE

Location:  Barangay Bay-yo, Bontoc, Mountain Province, Philippines 

My magical backdrop of Bay-yo Rice Terraces

There is no single exact count of individual rice terraces in the Philippines, because they form massive, interconnected networks across the mountains.  However, official UNESCO World Heritage Centre recognize five primary clusters, while broader geographic inventories document more than 48 major terrace systems and clusters across the Ifugao province, namely: Batad (Banaue), Bangaan (Banaue), Mayoyao (Mayoyao), Hungduan (Hungduan) and Nagacadan (Kiangan). They were built approximately 2,000 years ago by the ancestors of the indigenous Ifugao people.   It is a misconception, that the famous Banaue Rice Terraces are a National Cultural Treasure, but they are not officially on the UNESCO World Heritage list due to modern structural changes in the town.

With the native, Roberto "Lotno" Banaba

So, it is clear that our subject, Bay-yo Rice Terraces is not a part of the rice terraces clusters of the Ifugao province, since it is located in the Mountain Province.  While the major terrace clusters of the Mountain Province is divided into three:  Maligcong Rice Terraces, Bontoc and Sagada, and Sabangan.  Bay-yo Rice Terraces is a part of the Bontoc major terrace cluster.

Bontoc town proper

Bay-yo Rice Terraces is 16 kilometers from Bontoc town proper which is approximately less than 15 minutes by single motor bike or 30 minutes if through public utility jeepney.    On this trip I came from Iyaman Farm Resort, where I stayed as my accommodation while I had my 7 Peaks Bauko Climb.

Bontoc town proper as captured from Sitio Kalonglong of Barangay Samoki

Bontoc is a 2nd-class municipality and the capital town of Mountain Province in the Cordillera Administrative Region (CAR) of the Philippines.  It has 16 barangays including Bontoc Ili, Maligcong, and Samoki.  It houses Bontoc Museum which showcases the traditional indigenous culture and its early historic artifacts and literature.   It is tucked inside deep mountain valleys along the Chico River in Northern Luzon.  

The average elevation of Bontoc is approximately 1,143 meters (3,850 feet) to 1,173 meters (3,848 feet) above sea level, making its weather colder all year long compared to the lowlands.  Its temperature typically ranges from a low of 15 degrees Celsius during the coolest nights in January to a high of 28 degrees Celsius during warm daytime periods in May.  Year-round daily temperatures generally average between 22 degrees Celsius to 27 degrees Celsius.

Famous attractions in Bontoc are hanging coffins nearby, Maligcong Rice Terraces and mountain hiking spots like Mount Fato and Mount Kofafey.

Agguyo/Agkhuyo River cutting through Sugit Rice Terraces

This is one of the sceneries along our way from Bontoc town proper located between Barangays Talubin and Barangay Samoki.  Agyu River connects at the far end of Agguyo River.

Along Ab-ab in  Barangay Talubin 

Another major clusters of Bontoc and Sagada terraces on our way to Bay-yo Village.   Currently, there is the BinBay Cafe on the left end of the Ab-ab Bridge.

Drying newly harvested rice along the highway

Vhe-vhe Water Falls along the road

Obviously a mountainous region

Arriving at the viewpoint of Bay-yo with the local Roberto "Lotno" Banaba

After a drive of 13 kilometers from Bontoc town proper, we arrived at the viewpoint.  This point is just along the highway.  Those buses coming from Banaue passes thru this viewpoint, but commercial buses and jeepneys coming from Manila or Banaue or those coming from Sagada and Bontoc do not stop at this point.

By the way, Lotno Banaba is the uncle of my guide, Alberto Ivo Andrada.  I am lucky that we were welcomed in Bay-yo warmly since Albert is known to the villagers.

Arriving in Bay-yo village

From the viewpoint is  3 kilometers trekking down, where it is passable by any vehicle.     This lush golden terraces during harvest season is on the slopes of Mount Polis which offer a scenic roadside view for travelers journeying through the Cordillera region.

Heading to the terraces

Lucky enough, during our visit, it was harvest season and Albert asked the villagers if I can join the harvest which they enthusiastically welcomed.

San Pablo Catholic Chapel blends in the scenic highland terraces

This Catholic chapel serves as a local Basic Ecclesial Community (BEC) place of worship for the residents nestled right by the majestic view of the terraces.  It is under the Ecclesiastical Jurisdiction of the Apostolic Vicariate of Bontoc-Lagawe.

Joining the harvesters team

Do you know that harvesting rice here is just Bayanihan?  They are not being paid.  Bayanihan is a core Filipino cultural value that means community unity, cooperation, and helping others without expecting anything in return.  It comes from the word bayan, meaning town, nation, or community.

Harvesting in action

My way of community immersion

It was actually 12:30 Noon when we were in the rice field harvesting rice, but it was not hot at all since it was cold.  It was even windy and it was just cool to be in the middle of the rice field joining the villagers harvesting rice.

Enjoying what I was doing

You know what, the villagers are English-speaking, and mind you, they are fluent in English.  I just love being with the villagers.  I had a chat with one of them and she was a student.  A college senior student and like me, she is also a mountain climber.

Happily showing my harvest

Washing my mud-covered feet

While I was washing my feet, my harvested rice was carried to the warehouse.  The man standing in front of me carried my harvest.  That is how much I've worked for the day.

Leaving the place with a happy heart

After harvest, there was supposed to be lavish party for the bayanihan harvesters including me, but I need to leave and can no longer wait since I have a scheduled trip back to Manila and Albert drove me back to Bontoc town where the bus terminal is located for Manila.  The bus I boarded came originally from its first departure station of Sagada.  I left Bontoc town at 3:45 P.M.  The bus fare from Bontoc to Manila is P1,300 or US$21.42 for 12.5 hours.  

This trip became possible when my Bauko local friend, Angela Andrada, my guide in Iyaman Farm Resort volunteered his husband, Alberto Ivo Andrada.  Angela can be contacted at 09283927662.

THANKS FOR READING!