MY THIRD TIME IN MOUNT UGO

Location: Nueva Vizcaya and Benguet
Jump-off points: Kayapa, N. Vizcaya; Brgy. Tinongdan, Itogon, Benguet
LLA: 16.31916°N, 120.80166°E, 2150 MASL (7,054 feet)
Days required / hours to summit: 2-3 days, 9-10 hrs
Specs: Major climb, Difficulty 5/9, Trail Class 1-3
Distinctive features: Pine forests, highland villages, views of Cordillera peaks

After registration in Kayapa of Nueva Vizcaya

This is my third climb in Mount Ugo as a joiner of the group organized by Mr. Timothy Mislos, my climbing buddy in my Mount Kanlaon climb. We came from different organizations and in the chat group we organized our chat group meeting, majority agreed that this will be a day climb instead of a major climb which should be done overnight. Most joiners are very young and three of them were just beginners

Who would dare to make Mount Ugo a day climb most particularly the beginners, when it has long trails to trek on combined with flat ones and numerous cardiac assaults most particularly when starting to ascend from Kayapa. After all, the mountain is the highest peak in a chain of mountain ranges with an elevation of 2,150 meters above sea level or 7,052 feet. Its name was derived from the Ibaloi word “Ugoan” which means “to cut the neck of throat”. It was discovered as one of the most favorite mountains to scale by the mountaineers when there was a tragic PAL plane crash in 1987 just few meters below its peak. Some professional mountaineers then volunteered to accompany the bereaved families of the plane crash victims with the assistance of the local guides in visiting the site for memorial activities. As such, its cool climate, unique scenery and flora had enticed some other mountaineers to experience scaling the mountain.

The the first wave of cardiac assaults with a jungle forest trail

We left Manila at 11:00 P.M. boarding a Victory Liner and in Aritao at around 4:00 A.M. of the following day and we waited for our chartered jeepney to Kayapa for another one hour drive. Kayapa town where we had our registration from its barangay hall had a market where we can buy food supplies. Since the group intended to have a day climb, cooking stoves and tents were not a part of our load. I knew we can't make it a day climb but I also did not bother to bring those stuff with me.

Just one of the rests on the first wave of cardiac assaults

Funny, that my climbing buddies even bought meals from Jollibee and McDonalds for takeout. While I did not because I knew I can buy food from Kayapa market. I only took with me food containers.

Prolonged rest due to cardiac assaults

The dense pine forest serves as a shade from the heat of the sun

We started the trek from the jump-off point passing through houses and the trail were concrete stairs with metal railings. Though it was ascending. It was only early in the morning but it was already hot.

viewdecks of neighboring mountains were everywhere

The endless cardiac assaults had led us to Indupit Village with a few houses at almost 12 noon. We decided to stay in an wall-less abandoned house for our lunch. Others just went out and lied on the grassy ground. After all, it was cold already because we were already in a very high elevation.

Our group had different pacing

The flat trails in a form of rough road passable by a vehicle were quite long and winding roads. The seating heat of the sun was on while we endless trek. However, we were amazed by the scenery that we see. Every sight around us was just breathtaking.

Regrouping after long plain walks

Since there were three beginners and were not ready for long trek, they are somewhat left far behind. Thus, our expedition leader (EL) in the name of Timothy told the lead pack and others to stop so that we can regroup as one whole group.

The reliable lead pack

I was a part of the lead pack. More or less, I knew what exactly how to climb Mount Ugo as this was already my third time. Still a few others are left far behind.

After long, flat and winding rough roads

We happened to pass thru a water source and they loaded their water containers with cold water. My big backpack was loaded with 6 liters of Absolute Distilled Water. Thus, I did not bother to get cold water from the water source.

The white mark at the background is the trail we trekked

It was already 4:00 P.M. and we were still struggling to head for the summit. Our three local guides were reminding us that they can only accompany us to the summit because they have been paid for a day climb.

Looking ahead and figuring how far still left for us to trek

Moving on with speed since I was chasing the guide on the lead

I was quite worried then how we will manage to make it to Tinongdan on time because we even haven't reached the summit and descending from there is still a long way to go.

Noticed something on the trail

I had just noticed that the trail as compared with my first two climbs here were not as pine forested as it was before. As far as I can recall, the trail heading to the summit are somewhat grown with more pine trees.

The black colored trail was an evidence that trees and bushes were really burned

Starting to ascend to the summit

Regrouped at Domolpos village for loading cold water from its water source. Had an ample time to rest to regain energy from such a long trek. This is in preparation for ascending to the summit.

The remnants of burned trees

Where are the pine trees?

So disappointing to see the burned trees

The ascent to the summit

Arriving at the summit ahead of the group with the lead guide

It was a consolation that the summit was still crowned with pine trees giving a better view than at the shoulder of the mountain which was burned already for farming purposes.

A part of the picturesque summit

I was lucky that our guide knew how to get good angle shots with proper instruction. While waiting for the rest of the group, I had already enjoyed a lot of pictures

Another rewarding view captured at the summit

It took more than a hour for the whole group to be formed at the summit. It was already 5:30 A.M. The air was getting colder and the fog is slowly invading the summit. While waiting, some of us were having snacks. With the magnificent at sight, picture taking was really inevitable.

Still a picture taken at the summit

When our group was already complete, we had a quick group photo and our guide bade farewell to us. They are going to go back to Mayapa. Anyway, four of us in the group knew the trail down to Tinongdan.

Rushing for descent

It was around 5:45 P.M. when we started to trek down from the summit. Our young blood climbing buddies were running down the trail. Though, there were some trail which were steep.

Gradually darkness is spreading

We took our head lamps because it was getting darker. The trail if passed on a day light is really beautiful as it is surrounded by pine trees. The trail was becoming steep and not navigable due to dry twigs that blocked it.

While at Tinongdan barangay hall the following day

Obviously, ours became a night trek. We continued trekking till 11:00 P.M. Because the two beginners can no longer walk, our group stopped on a trail with cemented structure which the irrigation passes thru. From there, we all lied down so tired while a few was on the rough ground and still few on the grass. Besides, we did not have a tent to use and we have nothing to cook. Because of this, we knocked at two houses in Lusod Village which happened to be a store and begged to buy food from them. Fortunately, they have cooked rice and we bought their canned goods for our viand. We have eaten our dinner.

Having breakfast at KFC Session Road in Baguio City

We resumed our trek at dawn and reached Kawayan village and crossed its footbridge bridge at 3:30 A.M. As we crossed it, we further walked a few meters and rested on the cold cemented road of Kilometer 0. Nearby were two houses where I opted to lie down in one of the tables outside the house. We waited there for our service vehicle going to Tinongdan Barangay Hall. It was already 7:00 A.M. when our vehicle arrived. We had a drive then to the barangay hall and from there we took our bath. Dried a bit our wet clothes. There were a few stores around to buy our necessities including food. Then, we headed for Baguio City

Buying some pasalubong at Baguio Central Market

While in Baguio City, we had our breakfast at KFC along Session Road. Then, we had a walk to Baguio Central Market to buy some pasalubong, vegetables and souvenir items. Then, we headed back to Manila.

SAMPLE OVERNIGHT ITINERARY

I am providing here an ideal itinerary we used in my first and second climb in Mount Ugo.

Day 0

21:00 Assembly at Victory Liner Kamias, Q.C.
22:00 ETD from Victory Liner Kamias going to Victory Liner Stopover, Aritao, Nueva Vizcaya
Day 1

04:00 ETA at Victory Liner, Aritao, Nueva Vizcaya
04:30 ETD from Aritao going to Kayapa via chartered jeepney
06:00 ETA Kayapa. Registration at PNP Station. Marketing of additional food stuff and breakfast
08:00 Reorientation. Giving some reminders and instruction. Observe buddy system
08:30 Start trek
11:00 Indupit Village for lunch. Load water from water source
12:00 Resume trek
15:00 Quick stop at Domolpos Village. Last water source
15:15 Resume trek
16:30 Campsite. Set-up Camp. Cook dinner
17:30 Dinner
19:00 Socials
22:00 Rest Overnight (RON) Day 2

05:00 Wake up call
06:00 Sunrise viewing. Breakfast
07:00 Break Camp.Start trek to summit
07:30 ETA at the Summit
08:00 Begin descent
11:00 Lusod Village for lunch
12:00 Resume trek
15:30 ETA Kawayan Village. Then continue trek to hanging bridge
16:30 Arrival at the waiting shed KM 00
18:00 Tinongdan Brgy Hall. Clean up.
18:30 Dry up a bit wet gears/clothes to make it lighter in weight
19:15 ETD from Tinongdan Brgy Hall going to Baguio via chartered jeep.
20:30 ETA Victory Liner Terminal. Baguio. Buy some pasalubong/other stuff. Dinner

22:00 Home Bound

MOUNT KANLAON CLIMB (GUINTUBDAN-GUINTUBDAN TRAIL)

Location: Negros Occidental, Philippines Entry point: Guintubdan, Ara-al, La Carlota City Exit point: Guintubdan, Ara-al, La Carlota City Coordinates: 10°24'44"N, 123°7'55"E Elevation: 2,434 MASL (7,989 feet) Days required / Hours to summit:2 days / 8-10 hours Specs: Major climb, Difficulty 8/9, Trail Class 4 Descriptive Summary: Mount Kanlaon ranks 6th among the TOP TEN "TOURIST GEMS" of the Philippines as shown is this link. It is the highest mountain in Visayas and is considered to be the Philippines largest active volcano. It has two known craters, one is the old extinct crater called Caldera with a crater lake in Margaja Valley just below the Makawiliwili Ridge with the size of 2 by 0.8 km (1.24 by 0.50 miles) and the second one is the active Lugud crater which already killed 7 mountaineers on its deadly eruption in 1996.

View Mt Canlaon in a larger map

This is a part of my April 11 – 15, 2014 Mount Kanlaon – Negros Occidental Trips which includes: Mambukal Mountain Resort; Bacolod City Tour; The Ruins of Talisay; and Balay Negrense .

This was my second climb in Mount Kanlaon where the first one was recorded on August 24-25, 2013 but due to Low Pressure Area (LPA), our group was not allowed to go beyond the Pagatpat Campsite for safety reasons. It was during my second attempt to climb that we succeeded to conquer its summit on April 13, 2014. To make sure that we get the scheduled we desired, our group climbing permit request was sent to DENR-PENRO addressed to Mr. Angelo Bibar on September 26, 2013 through LBC. Our group consisted of eight, namely: Peter J. Zabala, Alan A. Valenzuela, Benedick I. Manalang, Cesar H. Garcia, Rome A. Frias, Timothy E. Mislos, Jonathan L. Reales and I. DENR-PENRO only approves a maximum of 10 climbers for a day excluding the guides and porters. I was the Expedition Leader of the group for the second time.

Conquering the summit of Mount Kanlaon

This exciting climb has started with a PAL flight from Manila at 8:00 P.M. and arrived in Silay International Airport at 9:05 P.M. Our pre-arranged chartered van picked us at the airport and we drove to Bacolod City for dinner. Peter, Jonathan, Tim and Rome took the morning flight and so we picked them also from an agreed place and headed to Guintubdan Pavillon for an overnight.

One of the pools I saw in Guintubdan Pavillon Resort in my early morning walk on April 12, 2014

Bong Marcelino, our head guide, met us at Guintubdan Pavillon as we arrived there at almost 12 midnight and we arranged our meals to be cooked by them for breakfast and pack lunch for the following day. The groceries, butane and other necessary items were marketed by Rome Frias as an advance party and these items were equally divided to all our three porter guides.

Our accommodation of two rooms in Guintubdan Pavillon

We had a soundly and tight sleep in a Guintubdan Pavillon where due to its elevation of 900 meters above sea level gives a cooler temperature. The Pavillon is so picturesque overlooking the scenery down the place.

Connie Vasquez having her breakfast in the scenic Guintubdan Pavillon dated August 24, 2013, one of our climbing buddies during our unsuccessful first Mount Kanlaon Climb

Having breakfast in Guintubdan Pavillon is just rewarding as you see lush green scenery of rolling hills and mountains. How we wished, we stayed longer and savored the joy that this awesome sight had delighted us.

Our Climbing Team of Eight

The moment of truth has started as we carried our backpacks and in a moment of silence, our group prayed hard for God’s guidance and presence to give us safety all throughout the climb. The Pavillon serves as the jump-off point. We took the Guintubdan-Guintubdan trail which we believe is easier than the Guintubdan-Mananawin Trail. At exactly 8:00 A.M., we left the jump-off point.

The Busay Buslugan Falls as taken on April 12, 2014 (Summer Time)

We regrouped in Busay Buslugan Falls at 9:15 A.M. and had an endless pictorials. Our guides warned us that at this point “limatik” abounds and we have to avoid them by not sitting on the ground. The water then was so clear and quite inviting for a swim. We stayed in the place at 9:55 A.M. up to the point where we were dropped dead tired in our pictorials.

The Busay Buslugan Falls taken on August 24, 2013 (Rainy Season Time) during our unsuccessful first climb

I still recalled the first time we visited this water falls last August 2013, it was filled with cascading water and the place was foggy and quite cold. By that time, it was not inviting for a swim as the water was freezingly cold.

Taking a lengthy rest at Patay na Suba

We just passed in Patay na Suba (Dead River) at 10:15 A.M. Panoy and I did not stop there but the rest of the group when they passed through this point had a lengthy siesta including a snacks break. As you see, Panoy and I were not in the picture.

Our group had regrouped at Camp 1 for our lunch

We arrived in Camp 1 at 11:56 A.M. just timely for our lunch. As far as I can remember, my exclusive guide in the name of Rexon “Panoy” Pieldad and I being in the lead pack, had only rested for thrice from Buslugan to Camp 1 at a maximum of 2 minutes each. Longer rests made me feel chillingly cold and so I avoided it. Thus, we both arrived first in Camp 1 and the next pack arrived at 12:15 Noon. With our excitement, “limatik” (a sucking leech) was remote in our minds. Before we reached Camp 1, we had to hurdle three long assaults.

A 5-minute rest at Camp 2 with Jonathan Reales and my guide, Panoy

Trekking from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is only 18 minutes all of which are cardiac assaults where we left Camp 1 at 12:55 noon and arrived there at 1:13 P.M. From Camp 2 to Pagatpat Campsite, deep ravines were evident. Cardiac assaults were increasing in number and I have to stop to catch my breath. In some instances, I have to call Rexon to stop for a while and usually for barely two minutes, we resumed.

The first ravine after descending Camp 2

The scenic foliage is becoming richer, thicker and closely intertwined as the we trekked deeper into the rain forest of Mount Kanla-on Natural Park. This park was reenacted into law through Republic Act No. 9154, Series of 2001 establishing Mount Kanla-on located in the cities of Bago, La Carlota, and San Carlos and in the municipalities of La Castellana and Murcia, all in the province of Negros Occidental, and in the City of Canlaon and Municipality of Vallehermoso, both in the province of Oriental as a protected area and a peripheral area as buffer zone providing for its management and for other purposes.

Another deep ravine between Camp 2 and 3

As a background, Kanlaon Volcano, also spelled as Kanla-on or Canlaon, is an active stratavolcano which is the favorite spot for mountain climbers being the centerpiece of Mount Kanlaon Natural Park which was originally established on August 8, 1934. It is a part of the Pacific Ring of Fire.

Another deep ravine almost near Camp 3

Mount Kanlaon has three hot springs on its slopes: Mambukal Hot Springs on the northwest, Bucalan Hot Spring and Bungol Hot Spring. Its adjacent volcanic edifices are Mount Silay and Mount Mandalagan, north of Kanlaon.

Carefully scrutinizing the trail of a ravine if it is slippery

Left Camp 2 at 1:13 P.M. and was in Camp 3 at 2:05 P.M. We passed through the crash site at 2:35 P.M. where former President Ramon Magsaysay plane had crashed. Panoy and I were at Pagatpat Campsite at 3:40 P.M. and waited for the rest of the group.

The tranquil Pagatpat Campsite

We stayed longer at Pagatpat till 4:15 P.M. to ask the rest of the group if they can still manage to push for the Saddle Campsite for overnight and since it was still early, the rest gave a resounding "yes" to resume the trek to the Saddle Campsite where we reached there at 4:45 P.M.

The sunset at the saddle (photo courtesy by Peter Zabala)

I felt cold when I arrived at the Saddle campsite for I have been wet with perspiration and so after Panoy helped me to pitch my tent, I comfortably had an ample rest and waited for the call for dinner. The rest of the group went out to enjoy the sunset. There was no socials as everybody wanted to sleep but the campsite was so noisy with the LGU official climbers of Negros Oriental who had boisterous laughter until dawn. Our group had barely slept.

The sun sets completely at its rest as viewed from the saddle (Photo courtesy by Peter Zabala)

The night was not so freezing as compared to Mount Pulag but somehow one may not afford to have a comfortable sleep without socks and cold clothing gears as the coldness was really annoying.

Ascending from the Saddle to the Summit (Photo courtesy by Jonathan Reales)

Scaling midpoint from the Saddle to the summit

The wake up call was at 5:00 A.M. for us to witness the beautiful sunrise. And so without anything in our stomach, we headed up to the summit where it took us 40 minutes to completely conquer the summit. We first kissed the big stone on the foot of the summit as first timers to climb the summit.

The Margaja Valley – the old extinct crater of Mount Kanlaon (Photo courtesy by Jonathan Reales)

Scaling up to the summit has given us opportunity to capture the totality of the Margaja Valley where it really looks magnificent. It was so breathtaking and no word can ever describe how beautiful it is.

A closer glimpse of Margaja Valley or Caldera Crater Lake (photo courtesy by Benedick Manalang)

Scaling the summit was quite dangerous as the trail is consist of loose rocks and down to Margaja Valley is approximately a thousand feet below. Thus, how can I afford to miscalculate a step where it will cost my life.

I almost have seen the hole of the active Lugud crater

The summit has an active crater on it but we were advised not to look down for a strong wind can blow us down into it. We have to crawl and the guides were obliged to hold our feet for safety.

The hole of Lugud crater was not really possible to be seen by mere crawling (Photo courtesy by Jonathan Reales)

More or less, this is the only view available to our naked eyes as it is very dangerous to go beyond. We were following closely the instructions of our guides for our own safety. We cannot even stand at this point.

The hole of the active Lugud crater as captured by our camera through extended arms

Though it was scary, I managed to extend my arms to capture what is beyond my sense of sight but I was completely held by my guide in my two feet. This summit has a peak elevation of 2,435 meters above sea level (7,989 feet) and the mountain has a base diameter of 30 km (19 miles) and is dotted with pyroclastic cones and craters.

Our group with the backdrop of the Makawiliwili Ridge taken from the summit (photo courtesy by Jonathan Reales)

Based on what I've learned from my online research, Mount Kanlaon has erupted for 26 times since 1919. Eruptions are typically phreatic explosions of small-to-moderate size that produce minor ash falls near the volcano. In 1902, the eruption was classified as strombolian, typified by the ejection of incandescent cinder, lapilli and lava bombs.

Peter Zabala or Pete Zee provided most of the pictures in the climb

Grateful to meet, Pete for the first time who is a friend of my friend, Jrich Macasero where his artistic inclination in photography has provided me a lot of materials for this post.

Timothy Estanislao Mislos jubilant while at the summit

Another travel buddy made a difference in this climb as I learned some tips from him regarding some photography and IT tips. So glad to meet him for the first time.

Jonathan Lusares Reales – a keen macro-specie photographer

A silent but deep photographer has its own way of documenting every specie he captures with his camera whether it belongs to flora or fauna category.

Cautious of every step I made while descending the summit

While loose rocks are so dangerous for any false move, I made it to a point that I surely locked my feet in every single step I made for me not slip out.

Relaxed as I set foot at the Saddle Campsite

When I was at the summit, I was so worried of the research I made that on August 10, 1996, a group of 24 mountain climbers were on the same summit when the volcano suddenly erupted without any warning killing British student Julian Green and Filipinos Noel Tragico and Neil Perez, who were trapped near the summit. The authorities rescued the 17 others including 10 Belgians, another Briton and six Filipinos. The 17 were identified as Belgians Frederick Carraso, Philipp Couche, Caroline La Grange, Sophie La Benne, Darmien Gaitan, David Rycaert, Florence De Corte, Jean Francois Ossengeld, Caroline Verlinde and Delthme Ferrant, Briton Gordon Cole and Filipinos Pepito Ibrado, Wovi Villanueva and Albert Devarras.

We had then our breakfast as we returned to the saddle campsite and had breakcamp afterwards. The following is my personal record on how I descended the mountain with my guide, Panoy which I made it for FOUR HOURS AND 8 MINUTES to Guintubdan jump-off without taking any trail food and lunch and literally I was non-stop then. Left saddle - 9:20 A.M.; Pagatpat – 9:37 A.M; Crash site – 10:04 A.M. ; Camp 3 10:17 A.M.; Camp 2 – 10:49 A.M; Camp 1 – 11:03 A.M.; Patay na Suba – 12:17 Noon; Buslugan – 12:38 Noon and Guintubdan jump-off – 1:28 P.M.

On the other hand, I scaled Mount Kanlaon from the Guintubdan jump-off point to the saddle campsite for a total of EIGHT HOURS AND 45 MINUTES inclusive of occasional rests due to excessive cardiac assaults, lunch break, trail food and water break and siesta time in Buslugan for a lengthy pictorials. From the saddle to the summit is only 30 minutes if no pictorials are made along the trail.

Below is a suggested Itinerary:

Day 1

08:00 ETD Guintubdan
09:30 Buslugan picture-taking
11:30 Lunch at Camp 2
03:30 Pagatpat Campsite
04:30 Pitch tents at the saddle - There is an option to scale the summit if weather permits
06:30 Dinner afterwards socials
08:00 RON:

DaY 2

05:30 Wake-up call:
06:30 Breakfast
07:30 Breakcamp
08:00 Scale the summit with backpack
08:45 Start descending from summit
09:45 Pagatpat Ridge
12:00 Lunch at Camp 1
04:00 ETA Guintubdan Jump-off point
04:30 ETA Guintubdan Pavillon
04:35 Shower in Guintubdan Pavillon
06:00 ETD Guintubdan Pavillon
07:20 ETA Mambukal Resort

BUDGETARY CONCERNS

The total budget does not include the plane fare which is P3,500. These expenses include the registration of P300; 3 porter /guides for P7,000 including a tip of P1,000 for their extra services for cooking and made us like boarders waiting for sumptuous meals inside our tents; all meals from/to manila airport; all grocery items, butane, bottled water and other climbing supplies; chartered van of P3,200 from Bacolod airport to guintubdan; chartered jeep from guintubdan to mambukal for P1,500; mambukal accommodation of P3,300; guintubdan pavillon accommodation for P1,200; airport terminal fee in Bacolod for P200; hotel accommodation and taxi fares for the advance party in marketing food – P800 and other common expenses which were all divided into eight persons.

OTHER CONCERNS

Porter/Guides have a rate of P1,000 per day. On our part, we hired 3 porter/guides where we paid P6,000 and an additional of P1,000 for our tip. Our porter/guides had served also to be our cooks, photographer and safety advisors.

HOW TO GET THERE

Take any daily flight from Manila to Bacolod. Hire a chartered van from Bacolod airport to Guintubdan Pavillon for overnight so that the following day the climb can start as early as 8:00 A.M. It is cheaper to have a side trip to Mambukal than to hire again a chartered van from Guintubdan back to Bacolod. Chartered jeep from Guintubdan to Mambukal is only P1,500 and the minibus from Mambukal to Bacolod is P35.

Mount Kanlaon Climb is a part of our 5-day Bacolod-Mount Kanlaon Climb-Mambukal-The Ruins of Talisay Trip and I am sharing what we spent in the entire trip which does not include the "pasalubong".